Making a winter coat

Including: trying out lots of new techniques for the fist time.

I like pushing the envelope. I don’t know why, but I just cannot get enough of challenges. Not overly ambitious challenges, but still. I like to experiment with things I have not done before and enjoy adding to my knowledge of sewing-related things.

So, as promised, here is the coat I made while I was in Germany. I have actually worn it several times since then.

 

wool coat front3 Burda 6921 edited

 

wool coat side Burda 6921 edited

 

wool coat back Burda 6921 edited

 

The pattern:

This time, my fourth time making a coat (I think? I might have lost count…), I wanted something a bit different. I shopped around a bit, but am sad to say that I didn’t think there was anything better suited than Burda 6921 with some alterations.

I basically cut out view C of the pattern, but left out the collar as I had my own ideas of a big one-piece collar.

I then added some skirt panels and ended up making the back longer than the front. The Panels have some darts, which are lined up with the front seams of the bodice.

 

winter wool coat open Burda 6921

 

The fabric:

I used a heavy “fulled loden”, which is made from 100% wool. It actually has a bit of stretch to it and is a little lighter than I imagined.

I really fell for this steel blue, even though my usual colour palette is more in the realm of either petrol or purple.

What new techniques did I use?

1- Piping

I looked at this steel-blue coat and couldn’t help but think that it looked like something from a war-era. The colour just screamed “There is nothing to be happy about.” at me. I knew I needed some colourful touches, so I got some magenta piping to decorate the edge with. I had never done piping before, but didn’t find it too difficult.

piping front collar wool coat Burda 6921 edited

 

2- Felled seams

Now this was something I’d been wanting to do for ages. A lot of corsets employ a felled seam as casing for the boning and since making a “proper” corset is still on my mind somewhere, that is definitely something I keep an eye on. Also, I often see coats with felled seams and quite like the look of them.

There was also a practical reason though. As stated above, the fabric was a bit lighter and stretchier than I imagined, so any added strength in the seams would make for a more solidly constructed garment. I also topstitched both sides of all seams that weren’t felled, so the waistline, side seam and shoulder seam are all topstitched.

As you can clearly tell, I found it a little bit difficult to get accurate seams. My machine did not love this loden fabric and I struggled with tension issues quite a lot, depending on how many layers of the stuff I was trying to sew through.

 

DSCI0578

 

 

3- Welt pockets

I also finally had a chance to do welt pockets! I have to say, they are not quite as hard to achieve as I had thought at first, but give such a cool look to a pocket. This Burda pattern has the pockets in the seams, which is probably the easiest way of doing them, but since I didn’t use the pattern for the skirt part, I wanted to try my hand at something new. Nevertheless, there is definitely something I find very hard about them and that is making them look accurate.

You can see that they are a bit wonky, or rather, you can see that one is a bit wonky, as I am ashamed to show you the other one up close. This is definitely something I need to practice a bit (read a lot) more.

 

welt pocket wool coat burda 6921 edited

 

Oh, and here is my favourite part of this coat, the lining…

I used the most colourful lining in a very bright fuchsia, which is certainly a contrast to the drab steel blue.

 

lining and buttons wool coat Burda 6921 edited

lining wool coat Burda 6921 edited