Once you find a pattern that suits you, you can never have too many dresses made from it. Butterick B5209 is the kind of pattern for which that statement holds true for me. I spend lots of my time trying to find new patterns, but I often tend to find that rather than trying them out, I end up just adapting one I already own. I love B5209 for its almost-70s silhouette and keep making changes to it with every new dress.
This version not only has added sleeves, but I also found a way to incorporate that gathered front detail which I first encountered in this dress. I made it for a job interview, and although I did not get the job, I got a compliment from my mum, saying how smart I look in it. Seeing that she is quite hard to please, that is quite an achievement in itself.
I am sure though that the “smartness” of this dress is mostly due to the great fabric I bought. I used sateen for the first time, and while it is a bugger to iron (it just loves to crease, as you can see in the pictures), it has a rather lovely sheen and weight to it. It looks expensive, so to speak. Which is not to say that it isn’t. 😉 Two metres of this set me back 48 CHF, which is probably at the lower end of what I would have spent on a smart-looking dress, if I had bought one. Obviously, I still had to put the work in, but I would rather spend three days making this than going to all the shops around town for a day and probably coming back empty-handed anyway.
The front section is made up of a normal pattern piece and the same piece elongated (to about twice the length of the original piece). The longer piece is gathered and then stitched along the edges of the smaller piece.
The sleeves are self-drafted puff sleeves. I made them quite short, but wide. My normal puff sleeve pattern had too much height and while starting out with it, I found that combined with the bulkiness of the sateen, it added too much volume at the top of the sleeve, giving the dress a sort of exaggerated 80s look. I actually finished them for the first time by sewing a tunnel and pulling elastic through. I really wanted to shir them and then hem them, but again, the fabric was too bulky to facilitate much of a gather that way.
The skirt is another self-drafted one. I wanted something a bit less full than I usually do, so I made sure to include darts at the back to make enough room.
Making this version of Butterick B5209 made me really want to sew up another maxi dress. I guess this is down to the fact that I already added to the length of the skirt for this one, which makes it really easy to imagine a floor-length skirt. I have no idea where I would wear such a dress though, to be honest, but I just love long ball gowns. I’m sure it would be a good bridesmaid’s dress too, in the long or the short version.