Butterick B5209 – an elegant version with added sleeves and front bodice detail

B5209 added sleeve and detail front view2

 

Once you find a pattern that suits you, you can never have too many dresses made from it. Butterick B5209 is the kind of pattern for which that statement holds true for me. I spend lots of my time trying to find new patterns, but I often tend to find that rather than trying them out, I end up just adapting one I already own. I love B5209 for its almost-70s silhouette and keep making changes to it with every new dress.

This version not only has added sleeves, but I also found a way to incorporate that gathered front detail which I first encountered in this dress. I made it for a job interview, and although I did not get the job, I got a compliment from my mum, saying how smart I look in it. Seeing that she is quite hard to please, that is quite an achievement in itself.

I am sure though that the “smartness” of this dress is mostly due to the great fabric I bought. I used sateen for the first time, and while it is a bugger to iron (it just loves to crease, as you can see in the pictures), it has a rather lovely sheen and weight to it. It looks expensive, so to speak. Which is not to say that it isn’t. 😉 Two metres of this set me back 48 CHF, which is probably at the lower end of what I would have spent on a smart-looking dress, if I had bought one. Obviously, I still had to put the work in, but I would rather spend three days making this than going to all the shops around town for a day and probably coming back empty-handed anyway.

 

B5209 added sleeve and detail close up

 

The front section is made up of a normal pattern piece and the same piece elongated (to about twice the length of the original piece). The longer piece is gathered and then stitched along the edges of the smaller piece.

 

B5209 added front detail
The sleeves are self-drafted puff sleeves. I made them quite short, but wide. My normal puff sleeve pattern had too much height and while starting out with it, I found that combined with the bulkiness of the sateen, it added too much volume at the top of the sleeve, giving the dress a sort of exaggerated 80s look. I actually finished them for the first time by sewing a tunnel and pulling elastic through. I really wanted to shir them and then hem them, but again, the fabric was too bulky to facilitate much of a gather that way.

 

Butterick B5209 added puff sleeve

 

The skirt is another self-drafted one. I wanted something a bit less full than I usually do, so I made sure to include darts at the back to make enough room.

 

B5209 added sleeve semi side view

Butterick B5209 added sleeve back view

B5209 added sleeve and detail front view

 

Making this version of Butterick B5209 made me really want to sew up another maxi dress. I guess this is down to the fact that I already added to the length of the skirt for this one, which makes it really easy to imagine a floor-length skirt. I have no idea where I would wear such a dress though, to be honest, but I just love long ball gowns. I’m sure it would be a good bridesmaid’s dress too, in the long or the short version.

 

 

A Summer Dress with an Interesting Geometric Back Detail

Self-drafted from a Burda pattern

I am sure we all have patterns we use all the time. Ones that just work for our body type, don’t need too much alteration and are simple to use. One of mine is a pattern printed in Burda Magazine Nr. 07/2014. It is a gathered skirt and simple bodice made up of 4 pattern pieces. I have used the bodice pattern countless times before, making many different types of dresses, and was always happy with the results.

So when I was looking for a pattern to make an alteration to, this came to mind quite quickly. I had this idea in mind that I would change the back of the dress to be a bit more open and airy. I wanted something that combines comfort with style in the summer heat, while also satisfying my love of geometry.

So here is the result, a slightly different dress with a geometric back detail.

 

folklore summer dress geometric back detail back3

 

And yes, I am starting with a picture from the back this time. 🙂 It is definitely nice from the front too, but the wow-factor is certainly going on in the back. The geometric pattern is made of 2 sets of 2 fully-lined triangles overlapping each other. The lower triangles are a bit smaller than the top ones. Here is the back in a bit more detail.

 

geometric back detail

 

I did not have quite enough of the patterned fabric to make the whole dress, so I used just a strip of it for the skirt, while making the rest in a plain black polycotton. I think the whole dress has got a sort of folklore feeling about it because of that.

 

folklore summer dress with back detail front1

 

 

DSCI1160

 

 

 

 

A new summer dress made from an existing one

Including a lot of gathers… and some shirring

self-drafted gathered summer dress front3

 

It’s the summer! So last week, while sweating profusely and sipping a cold drink, I remembered that I have a summer dress that is perfect for this kind of weather. It is light and airy, made of super fine cotton and is simply gathered in the middle.

So I went to look for said dress and had to discover that all of the elastic had gone in the shirred lower back, so that I now had a dress that was absolutely massive on me. My first thought was to simply replace said elastic, but then I realised that I would have to take the back section out in order to shirr it.

So what is the next logical step in this case? Take the whole dress apart, draft a pattern from it and make a completely new dress? Yes, very much so.

I did consider drafting a pattern without taking it apart, but:

  • I would have to unpick some of it anyway to fix the elastic
  • The dress had so much gatherin going on, there was no way I could draft a pattern without seeing the full width of the pieces.
  • I had had some fit issues with this dress, which would be easier to fix if I could see the actual pattern pieces
  • I had probably had this summer dress for about 6 or 7 years, so it was time for an update

Construction

There is a lot of gathering involved in this dress. Both back pieces (upper bodice and skirt) are simply sewn onto the shirring, so they are gathered automatically by that.

 

self-drafted gathered summer dress gathers close-up2

 

The upper front bodice is gathered both at the shoulder and the bust. (I took the opportunity to make this pattern piece a little bit longer to accommodate my bust better.) The front skirt panel is also gathered at the waist. The front lower bodice is made of two panels, one is longer and must be gathered at the sides, then sewn on top of the smaller piece. This is certainly a technique I had not used before, but will absolutely be using again. I love the look of the waist on this dress.

 

self-drafted gathered summer dress zip and underbust

 

Oh, did I mention it has pockets? I often forego pockets, as I usually carry around a small bag anyway and am far too afraid to lose anything out of pockets, but they are useful for sticking your hands in when you don’t know what to do with them…

 

self-drafted gathered summer dress pockets

 

Isn’t this fabric the cutest? It looks a bit like I made a dress out of candy. 🙂

 

self-drafted gathered summer dress back1

 

So is this dress as good as the original?

I would say it’s better! It is more colourful (the original was made in a military green) and the fit is improved. I am definitely considering making this again in other colours.

 

self-drafted gathered summer dress side1

A self-drafted corset dress with layered skirt

Courtesy of Butterick B5797

corset dress with layered skirt front view1

 

So, first of all, I have been away for a week, and even though I came back with a massive cold, it was absolutely lovely. I went to Magaluf for HTID in the Sun. Not only was this my first time going to a holiday resort, it was also one of the best experiences regarding hardcore events. There is definitely something to be said for spending some time with your other half, lazing about in the sunshine all day and stomping about to your favourite music at night. As we don’t live in the UK, we don’t get to go to hardcore events very often, so this was a huge treat for us.

Also, I think this might have been the first time I brought exclusively self-made clothes anywhere on holiday! Yey! I can’t believe I managed that. Granted, one of them was only a refashion of a kaftan. But since that involved making an actual dress out of what can only be described as a fabric square, it’s basically self-made. 😉

In the last week before this holiday, I went a bit barmy and made three dresses to take with me. This is one of them. It was a complete spur-of-the-moment idea and I made it out of scraps I had had for years, and in a timeframe of three days. Unfortunately, the time in my “suitcase”, which is actually just a rucksack (I love to travel with hand luggage – no waiting around for baggage at airports), didn’t do it terribly well. The boning is now a bit wonky, as I am sure can be seen in the images, and hasn’t retained the same shape as before.

I’m a huge fan of rigilene as boning, as it’s quite flexible and while I like corset-shaped bodices, I don’t necessarily want to dance around in something with steel bones. And when I say dancing, I mean hardcore raver stomping, so it’s more like exercise really (but very very fun exercise). And I can’t do exercise in a steel-boned corset, although I am sure some people can…

 

corset dress with layered skirt close up front

 

Idea & Construction

As stated above, this was mostly an idea I had about 4 days before going on holiday. It’s always just before a holiday that I have a tonne of ideas for new dresses… I wanted something a bit fairy-like, elegant, form-fitting and cute at the same time. This patterned fabric had been catching my eye every time I came across it in my fabric stash. I knew I didn’t have quite enough for a whole dress, although there was more than I thought in the end, but was willing to make a bodice out of it.

I started making the bodice with the only corset-pattern I own: B5797. I know this is not a popular pattern, but I’ve had good results using it before and find it very useful for projects involving “fashion” corsets. I shortened the pattern considerably to make sure it only went to my waist and also lowered the back to make it look more like a bodice and less like a corset.

For the boning I went for a very simple solution: I overlocked the raw edges and then sewed the seam allowances either to one side, or in the case of the side seams and back seam, to both sides. This gave me boning channels that are not even visible on the inside of the garment.

 

corset dress inside with hidden boning

 

I think I might have already mentioned this in my last post, but I have never actually used a skirt pattern. Originally, I was going to finish the skirt simply with the black lining fabric and some tulle on top, but as it turned out that I only had enough black tulle for one layer and I still had some of the patterned fabric, I made another cute, scalloped layer out of that.

Since this is made of scraps, it is made up of four panels, each containing only two scallops. The black underskirt is made of 4 panels also, whereas the tulle layer is a lightly scalloped circle skirt cut in one go.

 

corset dress with layered skirt top view1

 

The finishing touches were made by adding an exposed zip at the front, bindable straps at the top and bias binding around the top edge of the corset. I used a rolled hem on all other exposed edges. Even though I think I could have done better, given a bit more time and a sturdier boning, I still really love this dress and am incredibly proud of it.

I have had the feeling lately that my sewing has massively improved since last year and that I can actually realise my ideas in a way that is pretty close to the original thought. This came out almost exactly the way I imagined it, which makes me so happy.

 

corset dress with layered skirt back view1

A 70s-inspired Summer Dress

A modified Butterick B5209

vintage B5209 me front view

Right, first of all, I apologise for not being very active (especially after my promise to post more…) I have this tendency to be a little bit overwhelmed when I have lots of time to be creative, but I think I’ve sorted it out now and actually accomplished something I am quite proud of. Which brings me to this project. I think Butterick’s B5209 is one of the easiest and quickest patterns to sew. It’s very straightforward and lends itself to making summer dresses like nothing else.

When I think of the summer, it always brings up images of flowy gowns and, for some reason, the Seventies. I absolutely love the dresses of that time, or as I should specify, of the early Seventies. I would have very much liked to live in that time period, although there are certainly things I would have missed. Above all, with HTID in the Sun coming up, I am glad to be alive in a time with raves. I don’t think I could live without electronic music, although as my husband pointed out, you can’t miss what you don’t know and it would have also been cool to dance around to Jefferson Airplane.

Now, this is not a flowy gown by any definition. If I could have, I probably would have made it into a maxi dress, but I sadly had to think of the practicalities of a long cotton dress in the heat. Not only am I going to wear it in Spain, Switzerland also gets really hot in the summer, so a short dress is preferable. Plus, I don’t think I would have had enough fabric. I bought this Rose & Hubble print cotton over a year ago and then could never decide what to do with it.

B5209 is a vintage 40s dress, which lends itself incredibly well to being remodified into a 70s dress. To achieve this, I made the following alterations:

  • I shortened the midsection of the dress. I kind of need to do this anyway, as I have a very high, very short waist (I am only 5’5”). The inverted V-shape of the lower bodice is certainly something this dress has in common with the dresses of the 70s, and their waist usually sat a bit higher than in the 40s.
  • I changed the skirt. I don’t think I have ever used the gathered skirt pattern that comes with this dress. I usually make my own skirt. It’s so easy to make a skirt that I know fits my proportions, rather than trying to adapt one that comes with the pattern.
  • The other major alteration I did was to add puff sleeves. Personally, I love these. In fact, I was thinking the other day that with my love of puff sleeves, maxi dresses and princess seams, maybe there is some suppressed wish somewhere in my head to be a princess. Well, let’s say I just like a certain elegance. 😉

I made a little tutorial on how I modified a normal sleeve pattern to a puff sleeve pattern here.

The sleeves and midsections are made of black Duchesse Satin. To be honest, I just wanted them to be a contrasting colour and this scrap of satin seemed fine for it. Ideally, I might have used a black cotton, but it works quite well as it is, I think.

Now, without further shenanigans, here is the dress in all its glory.

vintage b5209 front view

 

vintage b5209 side view

 

vintage B5209 back view

 

vintage B5209 me front view2

 

 

 

Making a pair of “ugg” boot slippers

self-drafted "ugg" boot slippers 3

 

In the last few days, as I sat down to work on making a bag, I realised that it’s been around 10 years since I lived in a small-ish house. This realisation was brought to me by a very bodily feeling, namely that I get a lot colder than I used to. Don’t get me wrong, I grew up in a small house, it used to be perfectly normal for me to wrap up and wear slippers. However, the last place I lived, you could walk around all winter in a T-shirt with the heating barely on. Ah, the luxury…

So I interjected my current work by making myself some slippers. Not that I hadn’t thought about it before, but, seeing that our flat was so warm, I found it quite hard to get motivated to make something I didn’t need.

Self-drafted pattern

Of course, my idea to “quickly” make myself some boot slippers turned into an endeavor that took a day and a half. Most of that was probably due to the fact that making a pattern for shoes, especially if you have never made shoes before, can be quite daunting.

The sole

I started by tracing my feet on cardboard with a pen, which was the quickest and easiest part of the whole pattern-making exercise.

 

tracing my feet for "ugg" boot slippers

 

This turned into the base pattern for the sole. With added seam allowances, I used it for all the necessary sole pieces, of which there were 4 for each foot: 1 outside sole made of vinyl leather, 2x wadding, and 1 lining. Apart from the sole for the lining, I sewed all the others together, layered with the cardboard pieces in between the two sheets of wadding.

 

"ugg" boot slippers sole parts

 

"ugg" boot slippers sole

 

The shoe pattern

I wanted slippers that look a bit like “ugg” boots, so I spent a few hours figuring out how to make that happen. I practised on a really small scale, which turned out to be a good idea for not wasting too much material. I’m not 100% happy with how it scaled up once I added seam allowances and will be sure to alter the pattern, in case I need boot slippers again. I cut the pattern pieces for the wadding and lining longer than for the outside fabric, as I wanted a fur trim at the top.

 

"ugg" boot slippers self-drafted pattern

 

"ugg" boot slippers pattern pieces

 

Sewing the slippers together

I thought it would probably be a good idea to attach the wadding to the outside fabric, so I sewed it on around the edges, inside the seam allowances. Then I sewed the pattern pieces for the shell together, stitching them to the sole in the end.

 

"ugg" boot slippers outside shell

 

"ugg" boot slippers inside of outside shell

 

The lining definitely needed overlocking around the edges. Faux fur tends to make a huge mess when you cut it and this was no exception. Nevertheless, once I had sewn all the lining pieces together, it made me think that I want some furry boot slippers as well. 😉

 

"ugg" bot slippers lining pieces overlocked

 

"ugg" boot slippers fur lining

 

Now it was just a question of turning the lining around and slipping it into the boots. I then simply overlocked it onto the waddin. After turning the fur over twice, I now had the boot slippers I desired.

 

"ugg" boot slippers 5

 

self-drafted "ugg" boot slippers 2

 

self-drafted "ugg" boot slippers 1

 

 

 

 

 

Self-drafted Scuba Dress

scuba dress on me front

 

I’ve been a busy girl this week. First, I updated my blog with a coat I made a while ago, then I made this dress, and then I also made a cute bag, which I shall tell you about next week. There will be some instructions as well as a tutorial on how to make bag straps in a pretty easy way.

How did I find the time for all this? Well, for one, I am unemployed at the moment. 😉 However, if you have an overlocker, you already know how quickly you can assemble a garment, and it will come as no surprise to you that it took me less than 3 hours in total to make this dress (this time includes some pattern-drafting on an existing basic pattern). If you don’t have an overlocker andlike to work with jerseys, get one. Seriously. Just do it. It doesn’t have to be expensive. I bought mine second-hand from ebay for around 90 Euros.

What fabric did I use?

I bought this scuba from this website a few months ago (UK equivalent here). I only saw today that they finally have a scuba-section. They did a survey last year in which I stated that I wanted more scubas, which made me wonder if I had something to do with that. 😛 Seriously though, I love that I can now find scubas on there without going through all of the jersey-section.

What’s even better is that I have the exact same scuba in a different colour, which I ordered from calico laine and which, due to the catastrophe that is dhl, took about 3 months to arrive in Germany. I’ll post pictures of the dress I made with that in the future. I actually wore it to Uproar in the Dam, so that blog post is well overdue…

I do have a bit of a thing for scuba fabric, by the way…

Onto the pattern…

This dress is mostly self-drafted, but based on an old T-shirt dress of mine (see here). This version includes princess seams, which line up with the front seams of the 4 skirt panels. I added some additional seams between bust and shoulder and forewent the princess seams at the back. I also used some black scuba strips to insert into the neckline and arms and around the waist.

 

 

scuba dress front 1

 

scuba dress side view

 

Some close-ups of the front and back details

 

 

And another update on the Merrylock 3040

I want to show you the hem of this dress, because I’ve been sewing my hems with the Merrylock 3040 for a while now,  but the other day I was reading my blog post from when I first got it and I have to say, not only have I got used to it, it also makes a pretty decent hem now without destroying the fabric. Please see below how well it is now doing with crossing seams.

 

scuba dress hem with merrylock 3040

 

hem inside merrylock 3040

 

hemmed with merrylock 3040

Making a winter coat

Including: trying out lots of new techniques for the fist time.

I like pushing the envelope. I don’t know why, but I just cannot get enough of challenges. Not overly ambitious challenges, but still. I like to experiment with things I have not done before and enjoy adding to my knowledge of sewing-related things.

So, as promised, here is the coat I made while I was in Germany. I have actually worn it several times since then.

 

wool coat front3 Burda 6921 edited

 

wool coat side Burda 6921 edited

 

wool coat back Burda 6921 edited

 

The pattern:

This time, my fourth time making a coat (I think? I might have lost count…), I wanted something a bit different. I shopped around a bit, but am sad to say that I didn’t think there was anything better suited than Burda 6921 with some alterations.

I basically cut out view C of the pattern, but left out the collar as I had my own ideas of a big one-piece collar.

I then added some skirt panels and ended up making the back longer than the front. The Panels have some darts, which are lined up with the front seams of the bodice.

 

winter wool coat open Burda 6921

 

The fabric:

I used a heavy “fulled loden”, which is made from 100% wool. It actually has a bit of stretch to it and is a little lighter than I imagined.

I really fell for this steel blue, even though my usual colour palette is more in the realm of either petrol or purple.

What new techniques did I use?

1- Piping

I looked at this steel-blue coat and couldn’t help but think that it looked like something from a war-era. The colour just screamed “There is nothing to be happy about.” at me. I knew I needed some colourful touches, so I got some magenta piping to decorate the edge with. I had never done piping before, but didn’t find it too difficult.

piping front collar wool coat Burda 6921 edited

 

2- Felled seams

Now this was something I’d been wanting to do for ages. A lot of corsets employ a felled seam as casing for the boning and since making a “proper” corset is still on my mind somewhere, that is definitely something I keep an eye on. Also, I often see coats with felled seams and quite like the look of them.

There was also a practical reason though. As stated above, the fabric was a bit lighter and stretchier than I imagined, so any added strength in the seams would make for a more solidly constructed garment. I also topstitched both sides of all seams that weren’t felled, so the waistline, side seam and shoulder seam are all topstitched.

As you can clearly tell, I found it a little bit difficult to get accurate seams. My machine did not love this loden fabric and I struggled with tension issues quite a lot, depending on how many layers of the stuff I was trying to sew through.

 

DSCI0578

 

 

3- Welt pockets

I also finally had a chance to do welt pockets! I have to say, they are not quite as hard to achieve as I had thought at first, but give such a cool look to a pocket. This Burda pattern has the pockets in the seams, which is probably the easiest way of doing them, but since I didn’t use the pattern for the skirt part, I wanted to try my hand at something new. Nevertheless, there is definitely something I find very hard about them and that is making them look accurate.

You can see that they are a bit wonky, or rather, you can see that one is a bit wonky, as I am ashamed to show you the other one up close. This is definitely something I need to practice a bit (read a lot) more.

 

welt pocket wool coat burda 6921 edited

 

Oh, and here is my favourite part of this coat, the lining…

I used the most colourful lining in a very bright fuchsia, which is certainly a contrast to the drab steel blue.

 

lining and buttons wool coat Burda 6921 edited

lining wool coat Burda 6921 edited

 

A self-drafted cute cross-body cat bag

cute cat bag 1 front

Why a cat bag?

I guess no one in their right mind should ask themselves why it is necessary to have a bag shaped like a cute cat face, but I shall make this query anyway.

For a few years, I was the proud owner of a cross-body bag shaped like an apple. Even though people sometimes mistook it for a cherry or even a strawberry (because of its red colour) I loved this bag so much. I took it with me to all my adventures, to clubs and festivals, concerts and fine dining.

That however, was also its demise. It is now a very scruffy-looking, faded old bag. And I still love it, but it’s probably time to say goodbye to it.

So before I went to Amsterdam for Uproar in the Dam, upon inspection of said apple bag, I realised (too late) that I needed a new bag. Googling for “cat bag” did not bring any results that I liked, so I thought I’d do what I always do when something I want doesn’t exist yet, I will make it.

 

DSCI0540

Materials

I bought some silver and black vinyl to make this from. This was my first time working with anything pleather/vinyl-related and it was certainly a learning experience!

You cannot put pins in vinyl, as I had learned from numerous sources around the internet long before I ever thought I’d actually use it. I used bulldog clips, which I had taken home from the office. They might have been pretty low-quality though, cause they weren’t great at keeping the layers together.

The eyes are glued on bits of black pleather and the nose is a baby snap.

I backed both sides of the bag with a dense, thick felt, of which I still have about 2 metres lying around.

The lining is made of a camouflage cotton lawn. I had made a dress from this (which I must photograph, so I can show it off) and had about enough left for this small project.

 

cute cat bag 1 lining 2

 

Topstitching

My topstitching is not the best. Not just for this, but in general. I have definitely made neater things with better topstitching, but it is a very important part of working with this material and I absolutely need to practice it. I am ok (for now) with the terrible stitching on the straps, as this is my first time working with vinyl, but I will make sure to get better.

 

DSCI0547

Tutorials

Since I worked with this material for the first time (did I mention that before?), I needed some help along the way. Even though I ended up making a pattern myself, I was heavily influenced by this tutorial. There is a lot of glueing involved, which I replaced with sewing, but it was a good pointer in the direction I wanted to go.

I also had a look at a blog showing me how to do straps. Her topstitching is so neat! I didn’t do exactly what she did, especially as my straps were going to be longer, but the tutorial taught me that I can sew four layers of pleather together. (I was a bit worried about my machine not handling that much, but it was fine.)

 

cute cat bag 1 back

 

cute cat bag 1 with straps

 

 

The corset pattern that no one likes: Butterick B5797

 

corset B5797 on me

Butterick B5797 is not a very popular pattern. It is a so-called “fashion corset”, which will NOT give the support or desired waist-cinching effect of a real corset. It definitely offers some support though.

However, I was looking for something I could wear out dancing (currently preparing for Uproar in the Dam), something that would give me the look of a corset, while also offering light support. Most importantly, I didn’t want to deal with grommets or clasps. I wanted something I could whip up and then close with a zip.

Seeing the pattern, I thought it was perfect for me. I really liked the option to put shoulder straps on, although I ended up not doing it, as I found it supported itself nicely (with a bit of additional boning) and stayed up without any problems.

Sizing

The sizing on Butterick patterns is relatively confusing to me. I tend to go for a US size 14, which would put me at a UK 16. Famously, there is usually some ease calculated into the pattern size one is meant to choose. If I went by their sizing chart, I would end up at a size 20, which I would absolutely swim in. As B5797 is only available in size 6-14 or 14-22, I thought I’d rather take in something that is too big, so I went for the bigger one.

I made the size 14, but graded the chest area up to a 16. It fit pretty ok when I made a muslin, but it was very hard to see the final form before putting the bones in. Once I had done that, I ended up taking the back and front seam in by about 1 cm each.

I must say though, I am pretty glad I got away with using the size 14. There is almost no pattern I can use in just one size without either grading it down in the waist or grading it up in the bust and hips, but I find Butterick especially difficult and often find significant sizing differences between their patterns.

Fabric

I used black duchess satin for the outside of the corset and lined it with a purple owl print cotton. The satin is quite thick and a lovely quality. However, I overlocked all the edges on it, as it frays terribly.

The owl print is so cute, I could wear the corset inside out. It is possible, although closing and opening a zip from the inside is quite hard. Also, unfortunately, the lining has some wrinkling issues.

B5797 lining front

This is the wonky looking lining. As this was my first time putting in a floating lining, I underestimated how precisely it had to match the outside to lay flat.

Boning

The boning I used was Rigilene. It is very lightweight, but gave exactly the support I want. Contrary to the pattern, I added boning channels on the outside of all the seams (except the front seam) by making my own binding out of the satin I used. I also added additional boning by putting two more boning channels on the inside of either side of the garment, as well as two boning channels next to the zip.

Rigilene can be sewn through. It feels a bit like cheating, but it was the only way I could get additional boning in, as I decided to do that quite late. Some of the boning channels cross, so with steel or even “normal”plastic boning, that would have been a much more difficult task. In addition, once I did the topstitching, I could just sew over the ends of the boning to secure it.

B5797 stitch detail

You can see the boning channels I added to the outside, as well as one of the ones I stitched on the inside of the corset shell.

Making corsets is fun

I very much enjoyed making this and will probably make it again. I really like the look it gives me without being uncomfortably tight. I plan on wearing this with a colourful tulle skirt, which I am also currently working on, but I am sure it would also look good with jeans or a circle skirt and petticoat.

I know it is not perfect. There is an amount of rippling in the fabric that any corsetmaker would snuff at, my topstitching is never entirely straight and the lining has all sorts of wrinkling problems. For my very first corset, I thought it was a great project though.

 

B5797 back

B5797 corset flat

B5797 side detail

B 5797 front 2