A self-drafted coat (in camouflage) made with Burda 6921

camouflage coat Burda 6921 me side 2

This week, I am well excited. After what seems like an eternity, my new camouflage coat finally came together. And as if that was not enough, the weather decided to get colder and give me a chance to wear the coat out every day now. I am so happy with this one, I would have hated to leave it hanging in the wardrobe.

Yesterday was a sunny day and I got my husband to take pictures of me in the coat! He seems to like it a lot, as he keeps telling people that it is really nice.

A bit about the pattern

This is my third time working with Burda 6921 and I decided to change a few things and also add a hood. What I love about the pattern is the way the collar/back of the coat works. Even though I didn’t do a collar at all, the hood still stands up somewhat against the back of my neck, so that I never get too chilly there.

Burda 6921 is pretty well-suited to an hourglass figure, which makes it a great base pattern for me.

The sizing is fairly accurate. I am a German size 42 (UK 14), so that is what I traced and cut and it fit me pretty well. This seems to be true for all Burda patterns, or at least the ones I have encountered before. The only adjustment I made is grading down to a size 40 (UK 12) around the waist.

I pretty much never go off the size charts on the back of any pattern, as that would put me at a UK 22. I did this only once, with my very first pattern, which ended up looking like I was lost in a stylish potato sack. (I am currently working on a Butterick pattern and there the size is always such guesswork…) With Burda at least, I know I can use my “store” size.

On the other hand, Burda patterns require you to add seam allowances. That’s ok when you do it once, but every time I get this pattern out, I have to do it again and it’s starting to annoy me. Next time, I will make new pattern pieces on Swedish tracing paper that will include seam allowances.

What did I add?

I self-drafted a hood. This is my second time attempting a hood and I think I did rather well. It is definitely big enough for my head and would have probably accommodated my dreads when they were longer as well.

I also made some small alterations to the width of lower half of the sleeves, as I thought that a wider sleeve would suit the look of the coat better.

I widened the lapel and added a zip to be closed on the side front of the coat. Again, I didn’t think buttons would be suitable for this coat.

Normally, the inside of the lapel is meant to be made of the same material as the outside of the coat. However, my husband convinced me to use the lining fabric instead and I think he was absolutely right.

This is the original sketch I made for this coat

This is the original sketch I made for this coat

 

The Fabrics I used

The outside fabric is a ripstop I bought from ebay. It is very sturdy and originally meant for military uses. It’s wind-resistant and shower-proof.

For the lining, I bought a shiny polyester satin. While it was cheap and looks really nice, it was certainly a pain to work with and kept fraying very very badly. Next time, I will overlock the edges before working with it.

 

And here it is in all its glory

I do apologise for the dorky faces I pull…

 

camouflage coat Burda 6921 me front

 

camouflage coat Burda 6921 back me

 

camouflage coat front me Burda 6921

 

camouflage coat walking

 

camouflage coat hood Burda 6921 me

And here is a bonus picture of the grumpy jerk that tried to prevent this coat from happening 😉

you are not sewing now

 

Winter is coming – and so are sweatshirts

It is getting colder! Or at least it was sort of meant to. So I decided to invest in some warm fabrics and sew up some sweatshirts.

My husband recently bought me a screen printing kit, so this a good practice run for making him (and me) some hoodies. I honestly don’t know why I have to make them before I print on them, as they are so much cheaper to buy, but then again, I seem to like torturing myself with unnecessary, time-consuming things, such as taking apart old clothes to make new ones.

 

DIY sweatshirt #2 front 2

 

 

Old to new

Speaking of turning old clothes into patterns for new clothes, that is how I made these sweatshirts. I had one that I owned for almost 10 years. It looked super nice on me and I did love it dearly. It wasn’t even falling apart, but it was starting to look a bit… grubby. Rather than throwing it away, I decided to use the pattern. This involves unpicking tons of overlock thread, which is rather dull and, I find, best done while watching something that doesn’t require too much attention.

As per usual, when unpicking overlocked clothing, all the pattern pieces come out a bit uneven. One sleeve is unlike the other (I completely improvised the sleeve pattern, as they were so crooked), one shoulder is higher than the other… I think this might be why store-bought t-shirts do that thing where they become all wonky after you wash them, with the side seams not lining up with the shirt sides anymore.

 

All my pattern pieces

So I made the pattern pieces modelled on the original sweatshirt and cut them out of this very thick, very green material.

DIY sweatshirt parts

 

There are two front pieces, which join above the bust. This gives me the opportunity to put elastic at the top of the lower piece and accommodate for my boobs.

DIY sweatshirt elastic sewn in

 

 Some progress pictures of the making process

DIY sweatshirt sewing in the neckband

my trusty overlocker doing a good job

 

DIY sweatshirt front and back

front and back piece joined

 

DIY sweatshirt shoulders sewn in

I sewed the shoulder seams first and then did the sides and sleeves in one continuous seam.

 

The finished product

DIY sweatshirt #1 front

 

DIY sweatshirt #1 side

DIY sweatshirt #1 back

And another

So after finishing the green sweatshirt and being rather happy with it, I made another one in this lovely patterned fabric, which is slightly less thick and warm.

DIY sweatshirt #2 front 2

 

DIY sweatshirt #2 side

 

DIY swearshirt #2 back

 

Prototype raver dress

raver dress hoop skirt front

 

 

Since I had a bit of a moan about the fact that I cannot find clubwear that I like, and with Uproar in the Dam coming up in November, I started concentrating on making some raver dresses.

 

This can be a bit difficult when you’re also trying to think about your autumn/winter wardrobe. So the next couple of months I will be busy constructing another Burda 6921 (and not to give away too much, but it will be glorious…), deconstructing one of my favourite jumpers to give it new life, making some heavy knit dresses and I am sure I can think of some other shenanigans to keep me busy as well. (Somehow my mind is already torturing itself with the idea of making a corset and tutu skirt with many layers of brightly coloured tulle underneath…)

 

However, back to the raver dress.

First, what fabric did I use? I have a great love for knits and the pace at which I can make clothes with them. I like making something tailored too (especially jackets), but when it comes to whipping up a quick but flattering dress, nothing beats a nice knit. For this, I used a “bathing suit jersey”, so essentially a Polyamide/Elastane mix. I got it here. No picture can ever do it justice, as it is really shiny and rather iridescent. However, that also means that you can see every little flaw…

Did I use a pattern? Frankly, I do not really use patterns with knits anymore. I have a base pattern for the bodice and skirt, taken from one of my favourite dresses, so that I do not have to measure everything out every time, but I self-draft around it as much as possible. Similarly, you can use any dress pattern made for knits as a base for this kind of thing.) That means, of course, that I cannot really remake any dress in the same way. But then again, I like making little variations every time. I get bored otherwise.

So why do I call this a prototype? I really wanted to try out making one of those dresses with a hoop skirt at the bottom. This was the first time I did it, and to be honest, it is not quite there yet. I used rigilene, which is not quite as firm as boning, but might still work if I encase it in something to make it look a bit more “bubbly”.

 

Here is the bodice for this particular dress. I completely lined it before attaching it to the skirt. I also ended up putting a dart in the sides for the front.

 

different neckline idea

 

And here we have the back and side view

 

raver dress hoop skirt back

raver dress hoop skirt side

 

There is a definite “Jetsons” feel to this dress, which I don’t mind particularly, but I would still like to bring it more into the here and now. What I really dislike is the wobblyness of the hemline. I think I might shorten it an inch or two. I have already removed the rigilene again in order to alter the hemline and am currently trying to figure out how to give it more shape. Hopefully, I will sort it out soon and get to show you a nice, flawless hoop skirt dress.

I am currently expecting a shipment of different lycra fabrics from the UK (which I ordered in May… the postal services really fucked it up this time), so I will be sure to attempt this again.